The 2007 Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate is a big wine loaded with dark plums, blueberries, tar and licorice. There is plenty of depth in this opulent, full-throttle wine, but not much beyond that. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Tel. (805) 698-3889; www.qupe.com

7 A massively rich, ripe, flamboyant wine. Huge in blackberries, cassis, smoked meat, leather, cocoa, pepper and sandalwood flavors that go on and on. Full-bodied, powerful, a hedonist’s Syrah. Near perfect balance of tannins and acids, with integrated oak. Dramatic and ageable, it should develop over the next six years. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 95