There is one Rhone varietal in the portfolio, the 2007 Nina Lee Syrah (100% varietal). It emits a bouquet of smoke, game, bacon, and blueberry. On the palate it is full-bodied, smooth-textured, and concentrated but is just a bit compact in the finish. It can be approached now but will be better with several more years of cellaring. Spring Valley Vineyard produces wine from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington. The winery is owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates but the Derby family from whom they purchased the brand continues to own the vineyards. The 2007 vintage was stellar in eastern Washington as reflected in Spring Valley’s newest collection. www.springvalleyvineyard.com

Spring Valley Vineyard, now being dramatically expanded by new owners Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, sits in a unique spot in the Walla Walla appellation. Now, if only the powers-that-be could make these wines at moderate levels of alcohol. Yes, this is delicious. Loaded with raspberry jam, peppery spice, hints of caramel. But the alcohol blows out the detail. Please—pull it back.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 88