The 2005 Nina Lee is 100% Syrah. It offers up a splendid perfume of spice box, bacon, game, and wild blueberry. Ripe, spicy, and savory on the palate with a flavor profile featuring blackberry and black pepper, it should evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2010 to 2017. Spring Valley Vineyards is a Washington rarity, a winery that uses 100% estate-grown fruit to make its wines. The brand is now owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates but the Derby family continues to own the vineyard. The winery began operations in 1999 and currently has 45 acres in production with the potential to grow. The wines are named after prominent deceased family members.

There is nothing shy about the Nina Lee Syrah, a super-saturated, almost 16% octane monster. Despite the massive structure, the wine sports a certain elegance, keeping both alcohol and oak at bay in favor of sweet black fruit and more subtle notes of sweet herb, black pepper and toasted wafer.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 90