Stones and citrus dominate Pierre Morey’s 2007 Meursault Les Tessons as they had his other village level Meursaults, including an oily-fusil and crushed stone note in the nose that is not the only thing about this wine reminiscent of Chablis. Here, though, in contrast with its closest stable mates, there is both an extra measure of creaminess to the texture that is not entirely reconciled with the wine’s citricity, and a more overt sense of oak in the form of vanilla and resin, not entirely integrated. This finishes strongly with a more diverse sense of mineral character, suggesting salts, iodine, and an faintly Chablis-like crustacean savor. Morey cautions that his Tesson not only reflects its rocky superfice in chalkiness and youthful reticence, but is also especially susceptible to shutting down after bottling. That said, I would be more inclined to describe the deficiencies here as some lack of integration and focus. Still, this has considerable promise; will almost certainly perform significantly better even short term; and should be worth following for a half dozen years, perhaps longer.
“For me, 2007 represents a compromise between 2004 and 1999,” says Pierre Morey, “though I suppose,” he adds, “there is a bit of 1996 in them. We picked some of our vineyards on the same day as we had in 2003, but what a difference!” He bottled his 2007s in late Spring, a few weeks after his negociant Morey-Blanc wines. (For reviews of the latter, consult the separate coverage in this report.)
Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661
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