Ansgar Clusserath Trittenheimer Apotheke Kabinett Riesling, Mosel, Germany

安斯加爾克魯塞拉斯特利騰海姆安柏塞克雷司令小房酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4069

Comprising the Vorlese (literally “pre-harvest”) pulled out early from all of her parcels in Apotheke, Eva Clusserath’s 2010 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett displays fusil and wet stone notes on the nose that mingle with faintly cheesy, yeasty elements such as one encounters quite frequently in young residually sweet wines at this address. On the palate, though, this is already full of charm, with delightful delicacy and refreshment, balancing fresh lemon against a lightly-honeyed sense of liquid floral perfume, and displaying just a hint of sweet-sour agitation in its persistent finish. Look for this to become significantly more expressive – probably even short term – and be worth following for the at least the better part of two decades. Eva Clusserath was among the many to experience a commercially depressing 2010 vintage. “We went as many as three or four times into the same vineyard to optimize ripeness,” she reports, and in the face of all that expensive labor, volumes were down by close to half. Clusserath double-salt de-acidified the must for her basic dry wine, but otherwise says she waited as long as she could to harvest (beginning only near the end of October) and arrived at total acidity in her other musts of around ten grams, extremely moderate by vintage standards (not to mention lower than Clusserath’s husband Philipp Wittmann registered in Rheinhessen!). And as usual at this address, a day or more of skin contact was permitted for the dry wines; and all of the wines stayed on their fine lees until bottling, which ranged from late May though July. Together with losses during fermentation and to tartrate precipitation, these factors resulted in wines whose finished acid levels would not even raise an eyebrow on the Mosel, something one can claim for very few 2010s. Yet ironically, despite that analytical fact, these wines are recognizably of their vintage in terms of their relatively sharp corners and in the best instances productive tension, vivacity and invigoration.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799