Speaking of balance, Clusserath’s 2006 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett is a model of barely-sweet yet delicate Mosel Riesling. Wet stone and ineffable pungent mineral traces hit you in the nose first thing from the glass, followed by grapefruit, apple, and mint. Wafting inner-mouth floral perfume and a suffusion of slate mark the subtly creamy palate, and the finish displays real delicacy. This will be a delight over the next 12-15 years, and while it’s hard to believe from the taste that this has around 40 grams of residual sugar, most Mosel growers would insist that the presence of levels like this adds significantly to longevity. Eva Clusserath keeps going from strength to strength, and made a success of 2006 (if one overlooks very small yields). This year, parcels of old vines she has acquired in Piesport and Dhron supplement her portfolio. The bad news is that she did this to compensate for many wonderful old vineyards she lost as part of the just-completed communal restructuring and replanting in Trittenheim. A prohibition is now (at least temporarily) in place against planting ungrafted vines, and there is not enough old plant material available. Even were clonal selections that she could have planted today to reach maturity (and she late middle age!), says Clusserath, they would never approach the quality of what she lost.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300
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