Clusserath’s 2007 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett – representing the “pre-harvest” of numerous parcels – exudes fresh lime, clover, and cherry pitted against an almost hard-edged stoniness in a way that reminds me of classic Saar Riesling Kabinett. There is also a chiffon-like sense of delicacy on the palate that contrasts strikingly with the wine’s adamant minerality. Nearly 50 grams of residual sugar come off as only just perceptible, and there is no sense of alcohol about this almost fruit juice-like essence of Riesling. A bit of fermentative yeastiness and cheesiness hangs over this in a manner typical for young off-dry wines of this estate, but not sufficiently to impair one’s appreciation or dim my admiration for a wine that should be worth following for at least a decade. Despite the ravages of hail in her Altarchen vineyards, Eva Clusserath triumphed in this vintage.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300