Despite its 48 grams of sugar, Eva Clusserath’s 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett tastes only slightly sweet. It also displays the lift and elegance of which its vintage is especially capable and the generosity of forward fruit – melons, pineapple, spiced peach, lime – that typify Riesling of Trittenheim. Inner-mouth apple blossom and lily-of-the-valley as well as the wine’s subtle creaminess not only lend charm, but also an impression akin to a cloud of flavor that floats over the palate and can still be glimpsed many miles after it’s passed overhead. Yet for all that, this is not in the least demure, nor is it deficient in classic wet stone and salt expressions of Mosel slate. It should still delight l5 or more years from now, and represents an outstanding value as well. Ansgar Clusserath’s acreage has been expanded into Dhron, Piesport, and Muhlheim at the expense of Trittenheim because, as Clusserath wistfully admits, after the communal grubbing-up, restructuring, and near-total clonal replanting of Trittenheim’s steepest slopes (a process collectively known as Flurbereinigung), she could not hope in her lifetime to make more of the sorts of Riesling that come from old, ungrafted, selection massale vines. That said, her new vineyards left her a bit in the lurch this year, inexplicably plateauing in Oechsle in November, whereas her remaining old vines in Trittenheim benefited from a late-inning surge in ripeness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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