The organic Cordero di Montezemolo 2017 Barolo Gattera, a release of about 5,300 bottles, is a beautifully fleshed-out and generous wine. That's the impression it gives on first nose, and the wine continues to deliver long after the bottle has been opened. With fruit from La Morra, the Gattera delivers a rush of wild berry, dried blueberry, lilac, earthy truffle and powdered licorice. All these elements are especially bold in this hot and dry vintage, although the fruit never feels too ripe or overly concentrated. However, the mouthfeel is noticeably thinner and shorter in this bottling from 2017.