The 2009 Syrah Hilltop comes across as massively powerful yet compact within the context of the other 2009s here. Interestingly, its bouquet is much more expressive, where sweet white flowers and all sorts of minerals add considerable complexity and a higher-toned register to the fruit. A blast of dark raspberries and black plums frames the long, intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Stolpman is located in the Ballard Canyon, one of the prettiest spots in the Santa Ynez Valley. Stolpman focuses on Rhone varieties and works exclusively with estate-grown fruit from biodynamically-farmed vineyards. Sashi Moorman oversees winemaking. Tel. (805) 688-0400; www.stolpmanvineyards.com