The 2004 Libranza spent 14 months in French and American oak. Inky purple-hued, it has a complex bouquet of smoke, cedar, tar, pencil lead, espresso, and blackberry. This is followed by a plush, full-bodied, intense wine in which spice notes and licorice emerge. It conceals enough tannin to evolve for 5-7 years and should drink well through 2035. Bodegas Matarredonda, with 60 acres of Tempranillo vines, was founded in 2000 by Alfonso Sanz Rojo. The Libranza bottling is made from pre-phylloxera 100- to 140-year-old vines while the Juan Rojo uses Tempranillo from 80+-year-old vines. Importer: Patrick Mata, Ole Imports; www.oleimports.com