Lots of bacon, leather and earth coat the nose of this vanguard-style Rioja, but unlike the spectacular 2001, the ’02 is not nearly as deep and ethereal. Blame the cool, wet vintage and take solace in the fact that it’s still a rich, almost syrupy red with integrated tannins and lushness. What’s missing is the wine’s patented layering and complexity. Imported by Jorge Ordonez/Fine Estates from Spain. ——M.S.(4/1/2006)—— 89