The 1997 of this single-estate Rioja, while not as complete or impressive as earlier offerings, is still very dark in color, with a nose of deep red and black fruits and a slight cheesy whiff. Dense, bottled unfiltered, it displays cassis-like and coffee flavors, and a tangy mouthfeel. The brisk finish has moderate tannins and an intriguing chalky note. (Available fall 2000.)——M.M.(8/1/2000)—— 89