Maison Bertrand Ambroise Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits, France

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Ambroise utilized 100% new barrels (he favors demi-muids) on his 2008 Nuits St.-Georges Vieilles Vignes, after having dropped to 70% in the two previous vintages, and the notes of machine oil, resin, coffee and toasted pecan found in the corresponding “regular” Nuits-St.-Georges are here commensurably enhanced. Licorice, cassis, vanilla, and smoked meat inform a palpably dense, abundantly if finely-tannic palate that thankfully preserves considerable fresh fruit brightness. Still, the finishing effect is still relatively adamant and dour. I last tasted this from tank prior to its spring bottling, and hopefully it will unclench thereafter. It ought to hold-up for at least the better part of a decade. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Ambroise utilized 100% new barrels (he favors demi-muids) on his 2008 Nuits St.-Georges Vieilles Vignes, after having dropped to 70% in the two previous vintages, and the notes of machine oil, resin, coffee and toasted pecan found in the corresponding “regular” Nuits-St.-Georges are here commensurably enhanced. Licorice, cassis, vanilla, and smoked meat inform a palpably dense, abundantly if finely-tannic palate that thankfully preserves considerable fresh fruit brightness. Still, the finishing effect is still relatively adamant and dour. I last tasted this from tank prior to its spring bottling, and hopefully it will unclench thereafter. It ought to hold-up for at least the better part of a decade. Bertrand Ambroise picked late and captured impressively ripe material in 2008, though the strident side of the vintage is sometimes still in evidence in the resultant wines, and not always comfortably married with the ambitious extraction and high quotient of new wood that characterize his regimen. (For further details concerning Ambroise’s methods, consult my report in issue 171.) I did not, regrettably, have chance to taste any of Ambroise’s 2007s, which he characterizes, predictably, as having been much more open early-on than his 2008s and as for the most part being ideal to drink young.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083