From the amazing 2007 vintage, the 2007 Vacqueyras Domaine des Genets is a profoundly powerful wine displaying stunning clarity as well as focus. Full-bodied with pure black raspberry and black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of incense, camphor, and garrigue, and powerful tannins in the finish, it will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 15 years.
In the late 1990s, as the quality of one of the northern Rhone’s most well-known negociant firms, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, was beginning to decline, the quality of Delas Freres was soaring, and they are now one of the three top negociant firms in the Rhone Valley. Delas Freres has been the property of Champagne Deutz since 1977, and belongs to the same owners as Champagne Louis Roederer. The owners as well as the Directeur Technique, the brilliant Jacques Grange, and winemaker Jean-Francois Farinet deserve credit for the rise in quality at this operation. The Delas Freres wines continue to go from strength to strength, and while I believe the Jaboulet wines will return to form under the new ownership, Delas Freres is already there. The current portfolio includes strong 2006s and very good 2007s. I reported on the gorgeous Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179, but there are two other noteworthy offerings from the south. Jacques Granges has done exceptionally well in Gigondas, a difficult appellation in which to work, even if you are a Gigondas vigneron, much less a northern Rhone negociant.
Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000
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