Subject to nearly complete malo-lactic transformation and matured largely in stainless steel, Dunham's 2011 Chardonnay Shirley Mays is scented with apple blossom, lime, and grapefruit. A meringue-like sweet-tart palate impression and distinct bitterness of apple pit make for positive tension on a texturally rich palate and sustained finish. I would be inclined to enjoy it over the coming year. Eric Dunham - a Walla Walla native whose family has farmed here for generations and whose parents were among the earliest investors in Canoe Ridge - opened Dunham Cellars in 1999 after several years as assistant at L-Ecole 41, where he made on the side the 1995 Cabernet that was to become his first release. At the time, there weren't even ten Walla Walla wineries, and Dunham nowadays (with winemaking assistance from Daniel Wampfler) enjoys a reputation as one of his region's and Washington State's veterans and benchmarks, in light of which I was a bit underwhelmed by my first experiences. Reds here spend up to 26 months in half to (more usually) 100% new barrels divided between French and American, and an intrusive or obtrusive oakiness - occasionally with consequent drying - concerned me as I tasted. That said, I hope that it will be possible for those more attracted than I am to an overtly sweet (often downright confectionary) and woody style to recognize in my descriptions wines that they will especially appreciate. In Dunham's own words -I want (to bottle) approachable wines, not monsters or wines designed for keeping.- He collaborates with Ken Hart's vineyard management group on three sites now closely associated with this winery: Lewis Estate Vineyard in the foothills of Rattlesnake Ridge, whose reputation as a then new vineyard began with Dunham's 1999 introduction of a single-site Syrah; and two Walla Walla vineyards, Frenchtown and Double River Estates. Tel. (509) 529-4685