The 2009 Chardonnay Shirley Mays was sourced from the Lewis Estate Vineyard. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel (75%) and new French oak (25%). The wine went through full malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie with batonnage. It offers up a nose of crushed rock, poached pear, green apple, and melon. In the glass it displays just enough fruit to keep the wine in balance, but it clearly lacks concentration. Drink it over the next 2-3 years while the fruit holds. Tel. (509) 529-4685; www.dunhamcellars.com

Superbly smooth—satiny is really the right word—this luscious Chardonnay pulls together papaya, banana, pineapple and apricot fruit into a seamless, sensuous, full-bodied whole. There is just enough acid to keep it upright, and lightly applied notes of barrel spice, caramel and toast.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 92