Young and tight, this was fermented almost entirely in stainless, with a small percentage in neutral oak. Acids are true and bright, and the fruit a mix of apple, pear and white peach. There’s a little heat in the finish; an indication that this is a substantial wine that can stand up to spicier dishes—something like tandoori chicken might be just the ticket.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 89