Soft and buttery, this is thickly flavored with caramel, traces of pineapple, and loads of rich, tropical fruit. It’s big, delicious, spicy, round and full, and it resonates nicely if you give it a little chill before pouring, to sharpen up the acids. Distinctive and appealing, as are all Dunham wines. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 91