The 2006 Shiraz (97%)-Viognier (3%) The Relic was also sourced from 98-year-old vines with yields of 0.5 tons per acre. It spent 24 months in seasoned French oak. Deep crimson-colored, it offers up a fragrant perfume of smoke, violets, Asian spices, black cherry, and wild blueberry. On the palate this medium-bodied, elegant Shiraz has a silky texture, luscious fruit, and impeccable balance. Give this very lengthy effort 2-3 years of additional cellaring and drink it from 2010 to 2018. Dan Standish, who started his namesake winery in 1999, was once a winemaker at Torbreck and, like Dave Powell, is a fan of Rhone wines. Importer: Ben Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376

This prodigious wine showcases Barossa’s ability to deliver big, mouthfilling flavors without any suggestion of heat or heaviness. Scents of stone fruit, pepper and red currants mark the nose, while the flavors take on a darker cast, heading toward black cherries and black olives. The tannins are supremely silky, but this graceful, feminine beauty should drink well through at least 2020.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 98