The Boillot 2008 Volnay Les Caillerets mingles surprising notes of Normandy cider along with mint, cassis and blueberry, all of which are wedded to a quite overtly dense, sappy, finely-tannic palate. It finishes with gum-sticking tenacity, peppery pungency, and slightly austere chalkiness, yet also persistently cool herbal and black and blue fruit notes. There are unfortunately only 50 cases worth of this Volnay from very old vines and likely to merit following for at least 6-8 years. Pierre Boillot - Lucien's grandson, for details on whose history, properties, and connection with other Boillots, see issues and 186 and 170 - noted that his Cote de Beaune fruit required more rigorous sorting in 2008 than did that from the Cote de Nuits, and the former resulted in several wines of relatively aggressive astringency. I tasted his 2008s prior to their March and April bottlings, and (except where noted) assembled from tank. (Unfortunately, shortage of time kept me from tasting Boillot's 2007s.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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