Boillot’s 2005 Volnay Caillerets leads with ripe black currant and raw meat suggestions, saturating the palate with sweet, brash, dark-berry fruit, but quickly reveals a pithy concentration of stones and chalk beneath. Sleek and refined in texture, this unobtrusively harbors plenty of tannins for 8-10 years in the cellar. Faintly disembodied notes of caramel and resin betray the oak a bit, but these should integrate given this wine’s formidable raw fruit intensity. Layers of fruit, meat and chalk are tightly packed into a penetrating finish. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.
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