There's a firm edge to the acidity in this sleek white, which heightens the apple, pear, lime and slate flavors, finding balance with requisite flesh in the texture. Best from 2011 through 2019.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

The Schaefer 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett smells of fresh apple, mango, pink grapefruit, and heliotrope, offering an effusive contrast with the corresponding Himmelreich. Lush yet light on the palate, this finishes with counterpoint provided by apple pit, citrus zest, the bitter side of the vanilla bean, and the proverbial impression of wet stone. I would not hesitate to hold it for at least a dozen years, though it is already delightful. I am by no means the first to remark that Willi Schaefer and Christoph had a hard act to follow after their remarkable collection of 2007s, but its successor represents an outstanding group characterized by vintage vivacity as well as the estate’s usual impeccable balance. “This is a classic Mosel year marked by its snappy (knackige) acids and high extract,” comments Willi Schaefer, adding that he “would rank it midway between 2007 and 2004. Around mid-October, a good 50% of the grapes were fully ripe, but some there were still some that were green, didn’t taste bad, but were by no means perfect, and those had to be left hanging until late in the month. If harvested along with the truly ripe fruit, they would have lent a sour note. In the event, a longer than usual stay on healthy fine lees helped to mitigate the 2008s’ acidity.” The Schaefers acknowledged the role of luck that the weather played along with this strategy, even if overall yields were unusually low for this estate. The small crop size – reinforced by the felicitous results of numerous trial blends – resulted in a relatively low number of individual bottlings for this address. “The band of ripeness was relatively narrow this year,” observes Schaefer, “and only after the wines were fermenting did it become really clear which should be Kabinett and which Spatlese.” Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is predictably softer and creamier than the other Kabinetts in the Schaefers’ 2007 collection, with lightly baked apple, lily, musk melon, vanilla cream, and subtle brown spices saturating your senses, informing a long, soothing finish, and lulling you into repose rather than invigorating. The buoyancy and delicacy as well as refreshment of the vintage and of Kabinett in general are thus expressed here in their own distinctly delicious ways. I fancy this being best drunk over the next 12-15 years. Willi Schaefer and Christoph harvested until mid-November. “There wasn’t any botrytis until the end of October,” relates Schaefer senior, “and what little botrytis there was, was clean.” Some of the excitement here, though, comes at the light end of the Oechsle scale. This year’s Schaefer Kabinetts represent outstanding values. But more than that, they display by turns delicacy and density, jewel-like intricacy and simplicity, elective affinity for our appetites and mystery, such as only a great work of nature confers. And if you prefer that they taste less sweet, just don’t start drinking them before they reach age ten! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300