Schaefer's two Kabinetts, the 1992 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett and the 1992 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, should give German wine enthusiasts fits trying to pick a favorite. Both exhibit lovely perfumed personalities, with great ripeness and purity of fruit, light body, and that understated, graceful, off-dry character that Schaefer balances beautifully with crisp acidity. Although not the most intense wines of the vintage, they are among the most elegant and refined. Both should drink well for 4-5 years.
Willi Schaefer consistently fashions superlative wines at his Mosel estate. Moreover, his prices remain uncommonly fair. Except for the super-sweet Graacher Domprobst Riesling Beerenauslese, all of the sampled offerings are fine bargains. A Terry Theise Estate Selection, imported by Milton S. Kronheim Co., Washington, DC.
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