Thanks to an early flowering and a cool season that saw harvest a month later than usual, the 2010 Esprit de Beaucastel spent six weeks longer on the vine than average. It's really beginning to unwind, revealing complex aromas of dried herbs, sweet soil, black olives, cassis and cherry. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a lovely core of fruit that's picking up plenty of savory nuance. It is balanced by bright acids and concludes with a flavorful finish that still displays some youthful chew.

The 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel is made up of 40% Mourvèdre, 28% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 5% Counoise. It has a medium ruby-garnet color and pretty nose of dried cherries, cranberries, dark chocolate, old leather and soy hints with dried herbs and coffee bean—this still has plenty of fruit and has just begun its ascent into tertiary character. The medium-bodied palate offers wonderful layers of savory fruits, with a firm frame of chalky tannins and good freshness, finishing very long. This still has plenty of time ahead but is drinking beautifully! 2,290 cases were made.

The 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel, tasted from foudre, is very, very young. The wine literally explodes on the palate with a rush of dark fruit enshrouded within a wall of muscular tannin. The 2009 is a dark inward Esprit that will require patience, but when the wine opens up it will be a jewel. Actually, it already is. In 2009 the blend is 40% Mourvedre, 28% Syrah, 27% Grenache and 5% Counoise. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Tablas Creek was founded as a partnership between Chateau de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Robert Haas, owner of Beaucastel’s US importer, Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is one of the pioneers for Rhone varieties in Paso Robles, not just for the quality of the wines, but just as importantly for creating a nursery of clones from Beaucastel cuttings that are now used widely throughout the region. The estate currently has about 105 acres under vine. Tablas Creek works with indigenous yeasts and favors large, neutral oak barrels and casks for aging. Vintage 2009 was the third in a series of drought years for the estate, which along with a severe spring frost reduced yields dramatically to less than 1.85 tons per acre. The wines, though, are striking. Vintage 2010 could not have been more different. There was no spring frost. Instead the estate received a whopping 44 inches of rain. A cold summer led to a late harvest that started during the second half of October and lasted until early November. Readers will find a broad range of compelling bottles across all price ranges. As an aside, Tablas Creek is one of the highest-quality estates in California that has the facilities and capacity to receive visitors.Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com