None of the previous wines can compare with the 2004 Esprit de Beaucastel, a blend of 50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 17% Grenache, and 6% Counoise. This is a beautifully complex effort (3,500 cases produced) displaying a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sumptuous perfume of earthy black cherries and cassis intermixed with new saddle leather, roasted meat, and Provencal herbs. With great intensity, medium to full body, and silky tannin, it tastes like a top-notch southern Rhone. This broadly-flavored red should age well for at least a decade. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

The winery continues to make progress with this ambitious wine, a Rhone blend of Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Counoise. The challenge has always been to move beyond simple ripeness, which is easy to achieve, into true complexity. The ’04 moves the ball forward, offering Provencal herb nuances to the cherries and cocoa.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 90