The brilliant 2006 Esprit de Beaucastel (45% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache, 22% Syrah, and the rest Counoise) possesses abundant aromas of underbrush, blueberries, blackberries, coffee beans, and licorice. An elegant, long, pure, medium to full-bodied effort, it is a faithful representation of its Mediterranean blend. Consume it over the next decade. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s. Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

No question that the flavors of this Mourvedre, Grenache, Syrah and Counoise blend are delicious. Raspberry and cherry tart, mocha, oatmeal raisin cookie, vanilla, what’s not to like? The problem is the structure, which is soft and lacking in vibrancy and tannic firmness. Drink now.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 87