The 2003 Barolo L’Andre is the estate’s traditionally made Barolo. It sees maceration of 40 days and is aged in 10-hectoliter cask. It reveals stewed plums, dried figs, cocoa and spice cake nuances in a slightly more oxidative style than the other Barolos in this lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Federico Grasso is a small artisan grower based in La Morra. The estate’s Barolos are among my favorite wines for near-term drinking in most vintages. However, these 2003s show an uneven level of quality which is typical of the vintage. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

This series of 2001 Barolos closes with the intriguing 2001 Barolo L’Andre’. Medium ruby with orange at the rim, it offers a very delicate nose of dried flowers, spices and herbs, along with pretty, nuanced flavors of ripe red cherries and minerals on a classic, medium-bodied frame. L’Andre’ is Grasso’s version of a more traditionally-made Barolo. It sees a long maceration of 40 days with natural yeasts and is aged in a 10 hectoliter cask. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411