The 2009 Barolo Rocche represents a departure from the norm. Between the warm vintage and the use of oak, I found this wine to be over the top. There is beauty here, but you need to look past the forest to see the trees. Inky dark extraction is rounded off by meaty, masculine tones of ripe fruit and spice. The mouthfeel is opulent and velvety. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2025. You can always count on Pietro Ratti for a fine bottle of wine. He is one of the most consistent and bankable producers in La Morra especially for those who enjoy the softer and more sensual side of Barolo. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2008 Barolo Rocche flows from the glass with layers of silky fruit. Freshly cut flowers, spices and minerals develop in the glass, adding shades of complexity and nuance to the expressive dark red fruits. In 2008 the Rocche is all about finesse and elegance, two qualities the wine has in spades. This refined Barolo should be at its best between 2018 and 2028, give or take. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. This is a beautiful set of 2008s from Pietro Ratti. While his 2007s were quite extroverted, Ratti’s 2008s return to a cool, inward style that is both classic and also typical of the year. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2007 Barolo Rocche is also a huge wine for this site. Layers of dark fruit, spices, menthol and mocha explode from the glass in this large-scaled, expansive Barolo. The Rocche shows marvelous intensity and seamless power from start to finish. Silky, polished tannins frame the dramatic, sweeping finish. The intensity of the mid-palate tapers off just a touch on the close, but that may be a function of the wine’s youth. If the finish fleshes out, the Rocche could very well merit a higher score in the future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Proprietor Pietro Ratti continues to dial up the quality, especially with his Baroli. In 2007 those wines aren’t as differentiated in quality as they typically are, which is one of the qualities of the vintage in general. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2006 Barolo Rocche is the most nuanced of these wines. Sweet, floral aromatics lead to a richly textured core of fruit that is supported by well-balanced French oak. This is a lighter, more refined style than the Conca, but the wine possesses an extra degree of finesse and elegance. The silky tannins for which this vineyard is so famous are in full evidence. Ratti gave the Rocche a year in French oak followed by a second year in larger Slovenian oak casks. Ratti’s 2006 Rocche is an exceptional Barolo in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2005 Barolo Rocche shows lovely richness and depth in its dark fruit, flowers, herbs and French oak. The Rocche comes together beautifully in the glass, as the tannins soften a touch and the wine gains clarity. High-toned, floral aromatics accompany the fruit through to the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a wonderful set of new releases from Renato Ratti, one of Piedmont’s historic names. The 2005s are especially beautiful for their soft, textured fruit and well-integrated French oak, something that hasn’t always been the case in recent vintages. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770