Quinta do Casal Branco Branco

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The 2011 BRANCO is the winery’s single vineyard Fernao Pires. It is rather consistently a nice bargain from this winery, a well constructed white with some depth and finesse--and a low end price. In trading up for—the measly extra $1—from the Terra de Lobos reviewed this issue, you get more depth and a much better finish. It may not be the best ager in the wine world or the most complex white, but in this price range it is surprisingly solid, persistent and able to show surprising grip on that finish in its youth. With wines like this, I always doubt that they will stay at their peak all that long, but while at peak, this is certainly a best buy that will not disappoint. Drink now-2014. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155

The 2010 BRANCO is a single vineyard Fernao Pires. Often, particularly when young, this bottling is remarkably impressive for its modest status and exceptionally low price point. So, too, this year. It is a worthy competitor to the gorgeous 2008, one of the nicest bargains I’ve seen from this winery, which makes quite a few. Persistent and pointed, it seems pure, steely and very classy, if a little lean, and quite mouthwatering. Tinged with a little lemon-lime, this is young, exuberant and ultimately quite delicious. While these usually in theory seem to have the acidity to hold awhile, they may peak early, thinning as they go along. So, don’t hesitate to drink them young and fresh, when you may get the best results, however long it holds. It seems terrific now. Drink now-2013. Importers: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel. (610) 688-8415

The 2009 BRANCO is 100% Fernao Pires, a grape with which Casal Branco does very well. A bit grassy and aromatic, this is lovely in this very modest price range, although I think I preferred the 2008. For now, buy this, as it is the fresher, current release, and it will be at peak near release. It is certainly another fine vintage for this value-priced wine. Crisp and mouth coating, with a touch of grass, it is perky and refreshing, and should be at peak now, however long it holds. It does fade a bit with air and warmth. Drink now-2012. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;

The 2008 BRANCO is silent about it on the front label, merely indicating “estate bottled” and “branco,” but this is a single-vineyard Fernao Pires, a grape with which this winery usually does quite well. Crisp to the point of mouth puckering, this nonetheless has fine depth of fruit and it is hard to believe it has a suggested list price (often a fiction) of only $9.00. Focused, pure and intense, with lemony notes on the finish, this mouth gripping wine is impressive in its youth for the modest money. This might cellar better than I think, but I’d rather be conservative at this point in my estimates. Drink now-2012. Casal Branco, little known in the USA, is one of the more familiar names in its region. It is fast becoming a favorite of mine for its ability to deliver reasonably interesting wines for extremely modest money. These modestly priced wines are cases in point.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155.