The 2010 BRANCO is a single vineyard Fernao Pires. Often, particularly when young, this bottling is remarkably impressive for its modest status and exceptionally low price point. So, too, this year. It is a worthy competitor to the gorgeous 2008, one of the nicest bargains I’ve seen from this winery, which makes quite a few. Persistent and pointed, it seems pure, steely and very classy, if a little lean, and quite mouthwatering. Tinged with a little lemon-lime, this is young, exuberant and ultimately quite delicious. While these usually in theory seem to have the acidity to hold awhile, they may peak early, thinning as they go along. So, don’t hesitate to drink them young and fresh, when you may get the best results, however long it holds. It seems terrific now. Drink now-2013. Importers: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel. (610) 688-8415
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