The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens in the glass with aromas of peach, pear, orange oil, freshly baked bread and honeycomb. Full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's layered and enveloping, with a deep core of concentrated fruit, lively acids and a long, mineral finish. Alongside its 2017 counterpart, this ranks as one of the finest wines I've tasted from Drouhin Vaudon.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is superb this year, displaying a lovely bouquet of pear, tangerine, lemon oil, pastry cream and iodine. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and textural, with a deep and concentrated core, bright acids and a long, expansive finish. While this displays all the elegance and charm that typify the vintage, it's the most powerful and structured wine in the portfolio.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is superb, offering up a classy bouquet of lemon oil, preserved lemon, beeswax and almond paste. On the palate, it's full-bodied, richly layered and succulent, with the most power and concentration of any wine in the range, revealing superb depth and chewy extract. While it's a comparatively open-knit, gourmand rendition of this great site, it's a serious, incipiently complex wine that will develop well in the cellar.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos has developed a subtle marine influence on the nose since I tasted it a few months ago. It is well defined and focused with fresh pear and green apple, though maybe the Vaudésir is prettier this vintage. The palate is sappy and quite saline on the entry, with nicely-judged acidity and a little resinous toward the finish. As I mentioned before, it does not possess the attack of the 2014, yet it should still give another decade of drinking pleasure.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos as picked on September 17 and has the highest alcohol degree and still is a modest 13.3%. The nose is quite complex and cohesive with yellow flowers and honeysuckle, a touch of granite underneath. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, more weight and fruit intensity than the Vaudésir, and then it fans out with confidence towards the finish with some lovely candied orange peel notes. This is a superb Les Clos with a long future ahead.