One of the more reserved wines in Brocard's portfolio, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains reveals notes of green apple, white flowers and lemon. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and blocky, with tangy balancing acids and a saline finish.

The 2016 Chablis 1Er Cru Montmains is matured in a mix of 50-100 hectoliter foudres (one-third) and stainless steel vats (two-thirds). It has an attractive if light apple peel and fresh pear-scented bouquet that needs some encouragement from the glass. The palate is balanced and fresh with well-judged acidity. There is a slight tang of quince in the background and it sports a fine, quite saline finish. It should be ready to drink straight from bottling, but should give six to eight year's drinking pleasure and possibly more.

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Montmains has a lifted bouquet with scents of lime flower, touches of buttercup and orange zest. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, a pleasant twist of sour lemon and well-judged acidity. This is quite harmonious, if not quite as complex and mineral-driven on the finish as I would have liked. Enjoy this over 5-7 years.

The 2014 Chablis 1Er Cru Montmains replicated its performance from last year. It has an attractive lemon curd and lime scented bouquet, well defined, and the acidity well judged with precise lemon zest and orange rind notes interlacing on the finish.

The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains, raised entirely in stainless steel, has a light, chalky bouquet that is just missing a little vigor. The palate is balanced with a pleasant fatness on the entry, then there is a slight "fish oil" note in the middle that feels a little incongruous. There finish nice and spicy but it does not possess the nervosité of other vintages that I have tasted.