Dill, caraway, and a maritime mingling of salinity and alkalinity scent the Brocard 2008 Chablis Montmains (incorporating fruit from Forets and Butteaux), and the combination of textural polish, clarity and refreshment on the palate here is admirable, leading to a finish of vibrant interaction between succulently ripe citrus, yellow cherry, and apricot; herbs; and vivid if to some extent elusive mineral notes. This should entertain, intrigue, and ingratiate itself at table over the next 4-6 years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) headed-up the Brocards’ 2008 efforts from start to finish, including a harvest that extended well into October, while Julien Brocard continues to up the percentage of acreage farmed biodynamically at this enormous property. (Tiny lady bugs and moons are scattered discreetly across the labels of those Brocard wines that issue from “bio” vineyards.) Due to time limitations, I did not taste the entire 2008 collection here, but every wine I tasted could be recommended and is included in this report.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Fine, pronounced white fruits and fresh apple. Slightly honeyed fruit, excellent balance of ripeness and Chablis minerality. Very good wine.