Jean-Marc Brocard Montmains, Chablis Premier Cru, France

讓馬克酒莊蒙特邁白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：5111

Lime, fresh cherry, and sea breeze-like salinity dominate the nose of Brocard 2007 Chablis Montmains (incorporating Forets and Butteaux), and when combined with this wine’s bright, efficacious acids and strikingly stony, saline undertones, I could imagine myself in the presence of a dry Saar Riesling. A silken, polished mouth-feel adds considerable allure and – along with an admirable sense of sheer extract – helps buffer the acids and diminish the sense of austerity in this wine’s impressively persistent, citric, savory, and pit-fruited finish. I would expect this to be worth following for 4-6 years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400