The Borgogno 2016 Barolo Liste is thin and fragile with a bouquet that struggles to come into the light. Give the wine extra time to develop and evolve in the glass, and you will eventually discover cassis, wild cherry and crushed flowers. The entire presentation is very minute and fleeting, as this wine shies away from any broad statements or overt intensity. To the palate, the Liste is silky and polished. Give it time to put on volume and spread its wings.

The Borgogno 2015 Barolo Liste shares some of the muddled and disjointed aromas that I discovered in the other wines from this historic estate. I'm just not seeing the clarity of fruit, and it is hard to identify the grape or the site. The bouquet offers low-intensity aromas of wild cherry, grilled herb and natural rubber. I feel like Borgogno could do better, especially with such important farming sites to their name.

From one of the most celebrated vineyard crus in Barolo, the 2014 Barolo Liste opens to a mid-weight style and a shiny ruby color. Like the other wines from this unhappy vintage, this wine seems to lack a sense of clarity and focus. The aromas are mild, and the mouthfeel is underwhelming.

Borgogno's wines from the 2012 vintage all sport restyled labels with strong white font over a solid black background. The look is modern and elegant. I tasted two samples of the 2012 Barolo Liste and both seemed subdued and shut down compared to the more articulate vintages that precede it. The Liste cru sees two meters of marl and sand. The wines made here tend to show smoky and savory characteristics. However, this wine is very dry on the finish and feels slightly older than it should given that it is a new release.

The 2011 Barolo Liste is heavily characterized by ripe and dark fruit aromas. Dried cherry segues to raspberry confit, plum and blackberry. These important primary fruit aromas are nicely contrasted against savory spice and cured tobacco. This wine offers significant power that is born both in the heat of the vintage and the generally more robust qualities associated with this special vineyard site.