The single-vineyard 2006 Barolo Liste is the richest and most voluptuous of these 2006 Baroli. It is made in a more modern style than the rest of the wines. There is plenty of richness and inner perfume, but the smaller barrels have flattened some of the character that is so compelling in the other Baroli. The Liste is still beautiful, but frankly it is a bit of a letdown after the other wines in this line-up. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.
This is by far the most impressive set of wines I have ever tasted from Borgogno, one of Barolo’s historic houses. The Baroli are terrific, but the biggest improvements may very well be with the entry-level wines, which up until recently were just a little bit better than undrinkable. Now that many of the more traditional producers have been re-discovered, so many of those producers’ entry-level wines have risen in price. The entry-level bottles from Borgogno are great choices for readers who appreciate the more classic side of Piedmont and want to be gentle on the budget. Kudos to proprietor Oscar Farinetti, his son Andrea, and their team. Borgogno may very well turn out to be one of the most remarkable turn-arounds in the history of Barolo. Readers who might have been concerned that the Farinettis would revolutionize the traditional style of the house have nothing to worry about.
Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799
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