The 2007 Cuvee D. S. is a blend of classic Cava varieties that is selected from the vineyards preferred by Dolores Sala, the erstwhile president of the company. Since 1969 it has only been made in certain vintages and is aged for a minimum of 36 to 48 months. It has a well-defined, brioche-scented bouquet with touches of acacia and lime flower. The palate has a complex opening with subtle hazelnut and smoky notes wrapped in a pleasant reduction. It is well-balanced with a taut finish that does not hang around for applause: a stylish Cava with precision and substance. Drink now-2016. Like its archrival Codorniu, Freixenet is associated with commercial Cava that sells in staggering quantities around the world, the go-to choice for consumers who want bubbles without Champagne's price tag. However, for this report I have focused upon their lesser-known premium range that is surprisingly diverse. I must confess that when they did pour their most popular label, it only served to illustrate the gulf in quality. Importer: Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-7256; www.freixenetusa.com

The 2006 Cuvee D.S. is made from the three traditional grapes but with extended time on the lees and a moderate dosage of 4 grams. Its persistent small bubbles and sophisticated aromatics make for a terrific value in sparkling wine. Most American consumers are unlikely to see any Freixenet product aside from the ubiquitous Cordon Negro. However, Freixenet produces a full range of Cavas ranging from very good to excellent in their price to quality ratio. I was able to see this firsthand in my visit to the winery in January 2011. Importer: Freixenet USA, www.freixenetusa.com