The 2010 Langhe Arborina is a pure expression of Nebbiolo that opens to beautiful shades of black fruit, tar, licorice, plum and dried blackberry. There’s a noticeable softness to the tannins that drives the wine’s lush, supple finish. It needs a few more years to reach balance. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Elio Altare is never a man to mince words. He tells the rags-to-riches story of Barolo with conviction, passion and firsthand knowledge. La Morra went from having a handful of farmers (five or six) back in the early 1970s to dozens of estates today. Back then, grape growers were considered so low in social rank, many could not find local women to marry. They imported wives from poorer regions of southern Italy, like Calabria and Basilicata, to live in the Langhe. “C’era la fame qui,” he says. (“We were starving.”) From his panoramic porch overlooking the Frazione Annunziata section of La Morra, he sighs, “Just look at us now.” He tells the story of his first trip to France: “It blew my mind that producers in Burgundy were buying Porsches and yachts with just a few hectares of vine while we were dirt poor.” Highly influenced by that trip (his use of French barrique for aging Nebbiolo is a prime example), Altare returned to Italy and vowed to shake things up. He most certainly did.Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2009 Langhe Arborina (Nebbiolo) jumps from the glass with freshly cut flowers, red berries and mint. This energetic, impeccable wine boasts incredible class and sheer elegance. It is a gorgeous wine full of energy and polish. Here, too, it is evident Nebbiolo did better than Barbera in 2009. The oak needs time to settle and the overtness of the fruit needs to melt away a bit before the 2009 enters its early peak of maturity. This is a great showing from Altare. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2029. This is a stellar set of wines from Elio Altare. The 2008 Nebbioli were brought in between October 7 and 10, which is a bit late for this estate. The 2008s have a Pinot-like sweetness that is incredibly appealing. Experiments with a fully destemmed Barolo continue. It will be interesting to see how those wines develop over the coming years, but so far the results are intriguing, to say the least. The biggest piece of news, however, is a new lease on a parcel of Cannubi, of which there are now five barrels resting in the cellar with vintage 2011. The new addition will console Altare fans over the loss of the Barolo Brunate, which will no longer be made, as Altare lost access to that fruit after the 2011 harvest.Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel.(415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2008 Langhe Arborina (Nebbiolo) is quite beautiful. It doesn’t have the vibrancy or power of the 2009, yet the pedigree of this hillside site comes through in spades just the same. Floral notes wrap around the delicate, perfumed finish. There is a Pinot like sweetness and silkiness to the 2008 that is impossible to miss. The Nebbiolo tannins add a measure of tension throughout that is palpable. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is a stellar set of wines from Elio Altare. The 2008 Nebbioli were brought in between October 7 and 10, which is a bit late for this estate. The 2008s have a Pinot-like sweetness that is incredibly appealing. Experiments with a fully destemmed Barolo continue. It will be interesting to see how those wines develop over the coming years, but so far the results are intriguing, to say the least. The biggest piece of news, however, is a new lease on a parcel of Cannubi, of which there are now five barrels resting in the cellar with vintage 2011. The new addition will console Altare fans over the loss of the Barolo Brunate, which will no longer be made, as Altare lost access to that fruit after the 2011 harvest.Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel.(415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

Altare’s 2005 Langhe Arborina comes across as unusually soft for a young Nebbiolo. It is a perfumed, elegant wine with generous sweet red fruit, subtle notes of French oak and lovely poise. This graceful Nebbiolo should be accessible fairly early. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. With his characteristic modesty Elio Altare told me 2005 was not a great vintage for him. “The harvest had to be timed perfectly, if we had waited just a few more hours the fruit would have been over-ripe,” says Altare. “2004, on the other hand was perfect. We were able to do several passes in the vineyards, picking each bunch at the optimal level of ripeness. In the cellar we did an absolute minimum of racking. The wines literally made themselves.”A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411