The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, white flowers, pear and crisp stone fruit. Medium to full-bodied, textural and concentrated, it's searingly intense, with lively acids and impressive levels of chalky structuring dry extract. Long and saline, it's more marked by the site than the vintage.

Dancer's 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is his finest premier cru this year, unfurling in the glass with scents of citrus oil, crisp green apple, white flowers, beeswax and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with a racy spine of acidity, exceptional texture and concentration and a long, mineral finish.

As is often the case, Dancer's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières was one of the least resolved of the wines in the cellar at this early stage, though its signature aromas of crushed rocks and white flowers was already apparent beneath the scents of ongoing fermentation. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with amazing depth and purity. I suspect it will surpass the Romanée this year, but it's still too soon to tell: prudent purchasers will buy both.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is a fabulous wine which takes time in the glass to unwind, reluctantly offering up notes of wet stones, citrus zest and fresh pear. On the palate, the wine is elegantly glossy, cool and controlled, with superb energy and tension. This Perrières is less lavish and dramatic than the Chevalier-Montrachet, but its concentration is nevertheless considerable and its finish long.