The most sensual wine in the range is the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a beautiful cuvée that soars from the glass with notes of wild berries, rose petals, orange rind and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids, melting tannins and a saline finish, it's seamless and elegant.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets is stunning, soaring from the glass with a blaze of rose petals, raspberries, peonies and bergamot, complemented by subtle hints of raw cocoa and truffle. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and perfumed, it's exquisitely refined, with a seamless, elegantly layered profile and a bright, saline finish.

Destemmed entirely by hand this year, the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets opens with an exquisite bouquet of plums, wild berries, dark chocolate and peonies that displays striking purity of fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and elegantly enveloping, with succulent acids, superb depth at the core and a long, mineral finish.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets unfurls in the glass with a classy bouquet of crunchy cassis, red berries, dried flowers and dark chocolate that's still comparatively primary, with little hint of the tertiary complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, chalky and tensile with a firm core of ripe fruit and juicy balancing acids. As is invariably the case, this Caillerets will demand a decade or more of bottle age before it truly shows its hand. After the 2017 vintage, half of the parcel was ripped up for replanting, so quantities will be more than usually limited in the years to come.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets lost half its crop due to frost damage, something that even Michel Lafarge himself could not remember over decades of winemaking. It has a drop dead gorgeous bouquet with shimmering red berry fruit, so effervescent with hints of blood orange and freshly sliced tangerines. Underneath all that is wonderful mineralité. The palate is very well balanced with a pitch perfect opening, tensile from the very start with layers of tart red fruit, just a subtle savory note surfacing toward the finish. Half as much but almost as good as the brilliant 2015 Caillerets.