The 2008 Cuvee Nouge - Muscat Petit Grain with a bit of Macabeu and Viognier (the Muscat Alexandrine usually included in this blend having been bottled solo) - smells of wild fennel, mint, acacia, lemon and orange. Piquant peach kernel and pungent herbal notes play on a bright, mouthwateringly saline palate, leading to a penetrating, invigorating finish. This wine's rather spare texture accentuates its aggressive phenolics and sharp sense of low pH, and I could see it benefiting from maturation in cask, which will in fact be this cuvee's destiny in the 2011 vintage after Lubbe takes delivery of old foudres from the Breuer estate in the Rheingau. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The Matassa 2007 Cuvee Nouge - an un-oaked blend of Muscat, Macabeu, and Viognier - smells of fresh lime, tangerine zest, mint, sage, acacia, and ocean breeze. With greater textural allure and a sense of lees-enrichment vis-a-vis its 2005 and 2006 counterparts, this nonetheless remains remarkably bright for a wine incorporating significant amounts of Macabeu and Viognier. There is a striking salinity running all the way through here, which Lubbe explicitly associates with soil minerality. I don't disagree with him that this wine is both finer and more structured than the two preceding vintages, but given how those have evolved, its clear that this needs at least another year in bottle to open up, and should hold up well for at least 2-3 years. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.

The 2006 Cuvee Nouge is scented with melon, acacia, and citrus zest. Luscious and bright on the palate, with white peach accented by pungently herbal and subtly bitter, stimulating notes of pepper and cress, this displays distinct attractions of Viognier but in an unexpectedly lithe, refreshing context. The finish offers lift and refreshment, yet at the same time noteworthy sheer grip. Along with the aforementioned herbal and zesty aspects come a pistachio-like nuttiness and saline, alkaline, and wet stone mineral notes. This should be worth following for another year at least. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.

The 2005 Cuvee Nouge offers mint and sage manifestations of Muscat on the nose, along with suggestions of acacia. Citric and bright on the palate - with underlying citrus oil, and apricot kernel piquancy - this finishes with herbal pungency, persistent but stimulating bitterness, and a remarkably youthful, lip-smacking and invigorating combination of salt and citrus. I would drink it soon to be on the safe side, but who can say, really? South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.