The 2006 Cuvee Nouge is scented with melon, acacia, and citrus zest. Luscious and bright on the palate, with white peach accented by pungently herbal and subtly bitter, stimulating notes of pepper and cress, this displays distinct attractions of Viognier but in an unexpectedly lithe, refreshing context. The finish offers lift and refreshment, yet at the same time noteworthy sheer grip. Along with the aforementioned herbal and zesty aspects come a pistachio-like nuttiness and saline, alkaline, and wet stone mineral notes. This should be worth following for another year at least. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.
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