The Matassa 2007 Cuvee Nouge - an un-oaked blend of Muscat, Macabeu, and Viognier - smells of fresh lime, tangerine zest, mint, sage, acacia, and ocean breeze. With greater textural allure and a sense of lees-enrichment vis-a-vis its 2005 and 2006 counterparts, this nonetheless remains remarkably bright for a wine incorporating significant amounts of Macabeu and Viognier. There is a striking salinity running all the way through here, which Lubbe explicitly associates with soil minerality. I don't disagree with him that this wine is both finer and more structured than the two preceding vintages, but given how those have evolved, its clear that this needs at least another year in bottle to open up, and should hold up well for at least 2-3 years. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.