The Matassa 2009 Cuvee Marguerite is half each Muscat Alexandrine and Viognier, matured in older barrels. "Ordinarily," explains Lubbe, "it would be half Muscat Petite Grain, but that couldn't be included, as it pretty much got smacked up side of the head by the August heat wave, whereas Muscat Alexandrine - which ripens up to a month later - came through." (Generally, Lubbe blends his Muscat Alexandrine into the cuvee Nouge, although there is an experimental, solo 2008.) The pungent intensity here of orange blossom, violet, acacia, candied blood orange rind, and resinous herbs makes the hairs in my nostrils stand to attention and sets up associations of sweetness. But the wine comes to the palate entirely dry, adding to its inner-mouth floral profusion lemon zest and nut oils for invigoration and richness respectively. The strongly nutty cast here is doubtless influenced by the low sulfur administered to all Matassa wines as well as reinforced by a glycerin-rich, slightly oily texture, yet there is almost explosive brightness of citrus as well as sizzle of citrus rind and bite of cress in the finish, along with an unobtrusive hint of heat. It strikes me that the normally-assertive Viognier grape, while influencing this cuvee's texture, can hardly get a word in edgewise in this vintage on account of the strong personality of Muscat Alexandrine! I would have been inclined to recommend drinking this over the next 12-18 months, but admittedly the blend is unprecedented, and its author seems to sense greater aging potential. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The Matassa 2008 Cuvee Marguerite - as usual, a blend of half each Muscat Petit Grain and Viognier - is pungently-scented with lemon and tangerine rind; acacia and sage; with hints of apricot or peach kernel that supply piquant counterpoint on the palate to the wine's incisive, juicy brightness. Tasted alongside, there is greater allure to the 2009 on account of its subtle hint at sweetness (not via residual sugar, mind you) and its oiliness of texture. Those of us who enjoy efficacious acidity and low pH will relish this 2008 more than will others, but it is likely to find interesting applications at table over at least the next 4-5 years for anyone with an open mind, and I suspect it will gain from bottle age. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The Matassa 2007 Cuvee Marguerite - half each Muscat and Viognier, and kept for nearly a year in older barrels - smells of orange zest and acacia; offers bright citrus, pungent sage, and bitterness of apricot kernel on the palate that follow into a long, intense finish accompanied by salt and crushed stone. While this already striking wine lacks the flavor interplay or textural allure of the 2006, I have come to realize (from my one very long session tasting at this address) that it simply needs another year in bottle. The only way you are going to experience that is to sock some away yourself, because for obvious economic reasons, these Matassa whites wines simply have to be sold before their time. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.

The 2006 Cuvee Marguerite offers a greenhouse-like diversity of flowers and greenery in the nose. Here is one of the rare instances where what I consider Viognier-typical oiliness of texture creeps into a Matassa white, yet the sap and brightness that characterize this whole family of whites does not desert you here, far from it. The finish is both bracing and cleansing, with a bite of cress and tang of the ocean. It should be fascinating and - with its uncanny combination of opulence and vivacity - multi-talented at table over the next couple of years. If, like me, you are a lover of traditional, bone dry, mineral-tinged, texturally-nuanced Muscat d-Alsace of a sort regrettably rare today (and then often very expensive), here is a wine you must try! South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.

The 2005 Cuvee Marguerite is low-key but intriguingly floral and subtly herbal in the nose. Youthfully refreshing and rather spare on the palate, suggesting cucumber, honeydew melon rind, salt, quinine, and a touch of honey, it finishes with a somehow shimmering, crystalline mineral sensation that is as delightful and persistent as it is hard to pin down. This nuanced wine really sneaks up on you. It strikes me as probably best enjoyed within the next year. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.