The Matassa 2009 Cuvee Marguerite is half each Muscat Alexandrine and Viognier, matured in older barrels. "Ordinarily," explains Lubbe, "it would be half Muscat Petite Grain, but that couldn't be included, as it pretty much got smacked up side of the head by the August heat wave, whereas Muscat Alexandrine - which ripens up to a month later - came through." (Generally, Lubbe blends his Muscat Alexandrine into the cuvee Nouge, although there is an experimental, solo 2008.) The pungent intensity here of orange blossom, violet, acacia, candied blood orange rind, and resinous herbs makes the hairs in my nostrils stand to attention and sets up associations of sweetness. But the wine comes to the palate entirely dry, adding to its inner-mouth floral profusion lemon zest and nut oils for invigoration and richness respectively. The strongly nutty cast here is doubtless influenced by the low sulfur administered to all Matassa wines as well as reinforced by a glycerin-rich, slightly oily texture, yet there is almost explosive brightness of citrus as well as sizzle of citrus rind and bite of cress in the finish, along with an unobtrusive hint of heat. It strikes me that the normally-assertive Viognier grape, while influencing this cuvee's texture, can hardly get a word in edgewise in this vintage on account of the strong personality of Muscat Alexandrine! I would have been inclined to recommend drinking this over the next 12-18 months, but admittedly the blend is unprecedented, and its author seems to sense greater aging potential. Tom Lubbe - for much more about whose work, consult my report in issue 183 - continues to experiment and fine tune, and there are some new cuvees and ideas here since I last visited. Speaking of which, beginning with 2011, Lubbe will have some old and impeccably cared-for foudres to utilize, as he was able to pick them up from Weingut Georg Breuer in Rudesheim whose cellar renovations were incompatible with their largest barrels. (Pity the freight company tasked with trucking them up to Calce!) I quizzed Lubbe this year about his reliance on so little sulfur; and he sought to assure me that "'tis enough, 'twill serve." But he also noted that contrary to widespread practice among advocates of low sulfur, he applies his sole dosage not at bottling, but rather right after the wine comes out of malo, so as to shock it only once; to have longer to observe the emergence of any potential problems; and above all because he believes that this is the most vulnerable moment in a wine's elevage, and hence the point, if any, at which it requires sulfuring. Lubbe notes that despite the drought in 2008, his vines produced a larger crop (relatively speaking!) than in other (warmer) recent vintages. He shares an opinion I heard from quite a few growers in the wake of recent experience that ultimately it's heat, not drought, that by promoting shut-down wreaks mischief with quality. (Incidentally, New Zealand-born Sam Harrop M.W. - known inter alia for his work in the Loire - is now no longer a partner in Matassa.)Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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