The 2006 Cuvee Marguerite offers a greenhouse-like diversity of flowers and greenery in the nose. Here is one of the rare instances where what I consider Viognier-typical oiliness of texture creeps into a Matassa white, yet the sap and brightness that characterize this whole family of whites does not desert you here, far from it. The finish is both bracing and cleansing, with a bite of cress and tang of the ocean. It should be fascinating and - with its uncanny combination of opulence and vivacity - multi-talented at table over the next couple of years. If, like me, you are a lover of traditional, bone dry, mineral-tinged, texturally-nuanced Muscat d-Alsace of a sort regrettably rare today (and then often very expensive), here is a wine you must try! South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.
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