From between Fremiets and Clos de la Barre on the north side of town, the 2005 Volnay Les Anges is a cru whose aromas and flavors suggest it had been macerated on cherry stones. But the strikingly bitter and tart elements are well integrated into sweet fruit. This has cut and vivacity as well as formidable density, and lingers with fine spice and chalky minerality. It should age well for at least 7-10 years. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.)Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.