Like the 2017 sample, the 2018 Gigondas didn't seem quite right. (Note: These were tasted blind, so I had no way of knowing they were both from the same producer until well after the tasting.) Grassy and herbal, with a hint of pickle brine, it's full-bodied and concentrated but overly tannic and tough. From a normally reliable producer, I'd guess this was just an example of a sample being off, and I look forward to retrying it next year.

Cut from the same mold, the 2010 Gigondas is slightly richer with more definition because of marginally better acid levels. It offers notes of Provencal spice box, herbs, thick, unctuously textured kirsch liqueur and black raspberries in its full-bodied, charming personality. With sweet tannin and a long finish, it should drink well for 6-10 years. (Not yet released)(Note: Readers should also see my previous Best Buy reviews of other Domaine La Garrigue, including one of the best values in Cotes du Rhone, their Cuvee Romaine, which is essentially declassified Gigondas.) Domaine La Garrigue, whose large vineyard was established in the mid-1800s, is at the top of its game. It is now controlled by the sixth generation of the Bernard family, in this case, Maxime Bernard, who is also the president of the Syndicat of Vacqueyras.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2009 Gigondas is a classic Provencal red offering abundant notes of bouquet garni and Provencal herbs intermixed with black cherry liqueur, lavender and licorice. With a dark ruby/plum color and medium to full body, this sexy, voluptuously textured 2009 can be drunk now or cellared for 7-8 years. (Note: Readers should also see my previous Best Buy reviews of other Domaine La Garrigue, including one of the best values in Cotes du Rhone, their Cuvee Romaine, which is essentially declassified Gigondas.) Domaine La Garrigue, whose large vineyard was established in the mid-1800s, is at the top of its game. It is now controlled by the sixth generation of the Bernard family, in this case, Maxime Bernard, who is also the president of the Syndicat of Vacqueyras.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

As its name suggests, Des Garrigues' 2000 Gigondas (75% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault) exhibits garrigue-like notes of lavender, dried Provencal herbs, pepper, and cherries. This leathery, earthy, spicy effort possesses a dark ruby color, medium body, and plenty of sweet fruit. Enjoy it over the next 6-7 years.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

This Gigondas is produced by the proprietor of Les Florets, the beautiful country restaurant on the hillside above the village of Gigondas. By the way, it is a restaurant that I enthusiastically recommend, with excellent cooking and a wine list of Gigondas offerings that may be the best in the world. To my knowledge, their Gigondas, which can be purchased for a song at the restaurant, is not exported to the United States. It is a well-made, fruit-driven, full-bodied, exuberant effort loaded with smoky black cherry fruit. The 1998 also possesses power and density because of the high quality of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. No known American importer.