One of my favorite wines in the cellar is the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a lovely cuvée that wafts from the glass with notes of plums, rose petals, sweet berry fruit, raw cocoa and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, bright and lively, it's sapid and concentrated, with refined tannins and a long, saline finish.

Invariably a highlight of the portfolio, Boillot's 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets derives from a low-yielding 60-are parcel of 55-year-old vines. Unfurling in the glass with a deep bouquet of wild berries, plums, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its concentrated core of vibrant fruit underlined by succulent acids and framed by chalky tannins. This is a brilliant wine that's worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets displays pretty aromas of cassis and blackberries that mingle with wood smoke, spices, rich soil and dried flowers in a complex bouquet that's deftly framed by toasty new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with good concentration and depth and a fine-grained chassis of tannin.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets is more taut and reserved than the Frémiets, opening in the glass with notes of wild berries, flowers and a framing of cedary new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and fine-grained, with chalky tannins and a long, sappy and almost saline finish.